Bukit Malawati - where the monkeys are the main attraction

Tucked away, not far from the Straits of Malacca, lies a quiet hillock that belies its violent past of civil warfare and gangland fights. Here you will discover the old charm of an era that spanned more than 2 centuries and the beautiful scenery overlooking the coastline on the west and the sleepy town below.


Up on the hill proud and sturdy cast iron canons still point to an invisible enemy. Judging by the size of the weapons they may not have caused too much physical damage - they were probably more of a morale booster to the troops manning the fort. Today more often than not it is perched on by the lone silver leaf monkey surveying the coastline below while taking a brief rest from begging for food from the generous tourists. Daily, carloads of visitors make the short journey up to the western side of the hill to pose and frolick with the grey monkeys and watching their lively antics. They are the lords of the hill now and their population is gradually increasing in size judging from the numerous new births of the golden haired langurs. Strangely, the young ones, usually seen clutching the underbelly of their mothers are born with eye-catching soft golden orange hair before they change their colour to the dull ashen grey hair of the adult monkey within the first few weeks.


The Silver Leaf monkey ( presbytis cristata ) belongs to the langur group which includes the Dusky Leaf, Banded Leaf, Grey Leaf, Red Leaf and White Leaf Monkeys. The usually tame and approachable monkeys are found mainly in Peninsula Malaysia, especially in the coastal and riverine forests where they live on a diet of leaves and take shelter on tree tops.


Sometimes you will come across their cousins -the long-tailed macaques visiting the hill for a spot of easy hand outs from the tourists. These normally more aggressive monkeys are found in abundance all over Asia and you should not mistake them for the more domesticated Silver Leaf. The colour of their hair is more evenly light grey and they tend to show more caution when approaching humans.


The macaques prefer forested areas near water and are found in higher densities along riverbanks, lakeshores and along the seacoast. The hill is not their preferred habitat although they would go there ocassionally for tourist food.


The monkeys seem to like the green long beans sold to the tourists up on the hill by vendors who charge RM1.00 for a small bundle. Some of the more adventurous of the visitors would entice the monkeys to perch on their shoulders for a photo opportunity. The others who are less daring would be too happy to take pictures of of the other visitors who don't seem to mind their pictures taken by strangers. The camaraderie of tourists lends a happy and casual atmosphere to the otherwise serene surroundings.


Take time off to soak in the beautiful coastal scenery which is made even more spectacular with the warm glow of the sunset. The best time to visit Bukit Malawati is about 5-6 pm when the sun is lower and the day is less hot.